Hailing from a big city like Los Angeles, I did not know exactly what necessary transitions to expect roaming the streets of Kathmandu. Over the course of a week certain traits, customs and behaviors of city life became more obvious to me. I would wander the streets of a city nearly 4,000 feet above sea level (average for Nepal) with a population of approximately 1.5 million people and smell the engulfing aroma of incense burning from local shops, hear Buddhist hymns amidst the new age and pop music played from loud speakers from cd and dvd stores giving a sort of soundtrack to the frequent people-watching of the city to which I indulge. It is an adjustment to watch the local population of whom many live well below the poverty line to beg on the street, and periodically seeing kids getting high off glue as they also beg for you to buy them candy and cookies, while others just go about their business. One could see amongst the local population a variety of backpackers, and trekkers adding a harmonious contrast to the city's mystique. As a westerner, it is hard to move 10 feet without being asked to buy some nick-knack, trekking guide services, hash/marijuana, or a taxi/rickshaw ride, yet it feels like business as usual and nobody seems to really become so annoyed and angry about it. The people are quite friendly, but simultaneously most are seeking any kind of 'commission' on any favor they can do for you.
As a foreigner (staying in the more touristic district of Thamel), one should always keep in mind that there is a pricing system used by the locals for the foriegners...1. the local price...2. the tourist price...and 3. the stupid tourist price. Falling somewhere in between the 1st and 2nd category is usually optimal, but patience, persistence, knowing the going rate, and the will to always walk away are always your best ally in the negotiation process. While this observation is seemingly obvious, it is very easy to get caught in the moment of any sale when it is a desired item. The hardest negotiations I have found to be taxis. The lesson learned is to always negotiate the price before entering the cab or rickshaw. It is important to be on your guard and aware of any given situation, while simultaneously remaining calm and displaying equanimity in each moment.
The habits of the general population are also a bit of a marvel. In the span of 30 seconds there is at least 5 to 10 people spitting on the streets (pretty much all without any sidewalk). The flow of traffic (on the British system of the driver seat on the right) weaves its way around the sea of people, though pedestrians really have no right-of-way, and the constant barrage of horns by passing vehicles tends to confirm that fact.
Rides on the public bus served for me a lesson in tolerance to disgust. Buses would be packed to the brim and any overflow would sit on the roof. Aisles would be cramped with people (many unbathed for some time) and picking at their orifices and wiping it on the seats that are too small for me to even sit on. The unwritten rule about bus travel is if any article of clothing or belonging is on a seat, it is as good as being officially recognized as reserved. No one dares touch a belonging on the seat. With virtually no sidewalks and frequent bus stops, traffic in the city gets intense and road rage is overt. Chaos seems to be the order on the streets.
With all the traffic, comes plenty of pollution. It isn't unbearable, but certainly noticeable. I would see 1 in 5 people walking around with a mask around their nose and mouth. Sinus irritation and burning in the eyes do come in spurts. Water pollution is another issue with a city wrought with cases of Giardia (sulfuric tasting burps and bad diarrhea) which could be contracted by merely brushing your teeth from the tap water. Unlike rural Nepal, Kathmandu provides toilets (but not always toilet paper, so I am sure to have tissue on me at all times)
In spite of some of the so called hard ships I had to endure, Kathmandu is rich in its diversity, particularly its food, yoga and massage ashrams, shops, and the general local and tourist populations. At about 70 Nepalese Rupies per Dollar, the city is quite affordable as I pay $7 for a hotel, and average $2-$5 per meal. I have indulged in getting Ayurvedic massages here for an hour to an hour and a half for $15-$20, including a massage from a blind massuer (recommended!). There is much to learn from this city as I have currently enrolled myself in massage courses and yoga classes. I enjoy watching chess games in public and saying "namaste" to any passerby and always receive a smile and warm reply.
Looks like I'll still have much to learn and still observe about Kathmandu during my stay here...with more updates sure to follow;)
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